Mapping a stereo install (2023)

T

Troubled1

·

Registered

Joined

·

9 Posts

Discussion Starter·#1·Dec 29, 2018

    Only show this user

I’ve had my 4g gs for just over a month now. Love the car but the RF stereo leaves a lot to be desired. I picked up a Kenwood (dpx303mbt) double din media player on Boxing Day and now I’m in the process of mapping out what I want to do and making up a list of supplies I need to do it.

I have (from a previous vehicle) a Kenwood KAC-8103D mono subwoofer amp, Alpine MRV-F301 4 channel amp, a set of Infinity kappa component speakers (6x8” woofers already in the doors) and a set of infinity reference 6x8”. My plan is to remove the RF sub and in each rear corner build fiberglass boxes for 8” subs and bypass or completely remove the RF amp.

I know I’ll need to order a dash kit for the head unit that’s a given. What I ultimately want though is to retain the steering wheel controls and (I’m not sure if this is possible) the upper dash display, spare tire, rear seats and as much cargo space as possible (not asking for much am I?). There seems to be a myriad of wiring harnesses available but I want this to be a one and done project.

So now on to my questions.

1- from looking around inside the car, mounting amps under the seats is out of the question. Is there possibly room under the panels in the hatch area to mount amps or will they only fit in the hatch area?

2- which steering wheel control adapter and stereo wiring harness would be best for my intended outcome?

3- With the side curtain airbags, is it possible (advisable) to mount tweeters in pods on the pillars or should I stick with the factory dash location?

Like I said earlier, I want to only do this install once and want to do it right. I’m not looking to build and audiophile or spl system, I just want good sound, usb, Bluetooth, more control options than the original and more volume. Is this doable or am I holding my hopium pipe too tightly??

NamelessFoe

·

Registered

Joined

·

529 Posts

#2·Dec 29, 2018

You can buy a wiring harness adapter for the car. Looking between $100-$200. That will allow you to retain steering wheel control of aftermarket radio. Amp mounting will have to go in the trunk, as no aftermarket setup besides a 5 channel amp will fit in the stock location. Even then you would be with the sad sound the car currently has. You could put new tweeters on the A pillar, but being that close to the stock ones, you might as well just clean install and replace the stock ones. From looking at the rear speakers, do not be surprised if you have to extend the wiring a little once you cut the stock connectors off to put on new ones.

T

Troubled1

·

Registered

Joined

·

9 Posts

Discussion Starter·#3·Dec 30, 2018

    Only show this user

My plan was to just get a harness to allow for easy head unit install with retention of steering wheel controls and dash display if possible. I won’t be using the factory amp, speaker wiring, speakers or subwoofer.

Some harness manufacturers say some are not compatible with the RF system. What I need to know really is, will just a basic harness that gives keyed 12v, constant 12v and ground work(meaning physically plug into my current harness) and then add a separate steering wheel adapter kit? I plan on running heavier gauge speaker wiring so the factory harness speaker wiring really won’t be an issue.

My stock RF has a 14 pin connector and a 22 pin connector as well as a round 8 pin which I assume connects to the dash display. I would like to keep the display but it’s not a deal breaker, I could always add gauges in place of it.

My new head unit has front, rear and subwoofer pre outs so all signals to the amps will be going through those via rca cables. I guess this issue in my head is seeing amp bypass harnesses and wondering what the point of using one would be unless it is what keeps the dash display.

NamelessFoe

·

Registered

Joined

·

529 Posts

#4·Dec 30, 2018

    Only show this user

There are a few harness out there. The one you will need is around $60. That will allow you to retain the steering wheel controls. As far as I know, the harness I purchased for $90 allows you to control the RF equipment through an aftermarket radio. If you are changing the amps, wires, and speakers out it would just be controlled through the radio. Not sure what there is to see.

T

Troubled1

·

Registered

Joined

·

9 Posts

Discussion Starter·#5·Feb 3, 2019(Edited)

    Only show this user

I decided to forgo the harness adapters and wire the head unit (kenwood dpx303mbt)directly to the wires in the factory radio harness. I made speaker adapters for the doors and installed my 6x8 infinity kappa mid bass drivers. I removed the stock tweeters from the dash and reused the mount by carefully cutting the glue that held the tweeter in. I then measured my infinity tweeter cup mount, found a matching hole saw and opened up the mount. I used gorilla glue to attach the tweeter cup to the factory mount and it worked perfectly.

The crossovers for the components fit under the door panel between the speaker and door handle. I left the rear speakers in as the other infinity speakers I have are 6x8” and there wasn’t enough room for an adapter. I will in the future replace them with either a set of JL 6.5” or infinity 6.5”. The door and rear speakers are run off an old school Alpine MRV F301 4 channel amp delivering 50w to each speaker.

I left the factory subwoofer in place and and am now running it off of an old school kenwood KAC8103D 500w mono amp. Again, as with the rear speakers, I will be replacing the single 10” RF sub with 2-8” subs in custom made fiberglass sealed boxes that will fit in the small alcoves in the rear corners of the hatch area. I’ll also at the same time get the steering wheel control adapter and install that.

The amps proved to be a pain in the butt to find a decent mounting location. I made a temporary plate going across the back of the rear seats and they just fit. When I build the fiberglass sub boxes I’m planning on making an angled rack that spans across the very back of the hatch between the subs and mount the amps there and I’ll add a small aluminum grill to protect them from anything cargo I put in.

Sound wise it is exponentially better than the factory RF system and I still have to finish dialing in the amps and head unit. The stock subwoofer has really came alive and I can now get volume levels that the stock system could never achieve. This system is far from an SPL or SQ setup but it’s doing what I want for under $125.

The head unit ($75 Boxing Day special) has quite a bit of sound processing built in including digital time alignment. My main reason for choosing this head unit was the front USB port, Bluetooth connectivity and it is a media player only, no cd mechanism. It has a front aux input but since I use the usb with my phone connected for music and charging and use a speedometer app with the phone attached to the windshield, I’ll probably never use the aux.

The E COMM message on the display isn’t worth the $$$ to pay for an interface to get rid of it and it doesn’t bother me at all.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pcfreak4

·

Premium Member

Joined

·

2,895 Posts

#6·Feb 3, 2019

Yup having the RF stock system means that your stock wiring is a little more complicated than if you had the non RF radio stock, as the stock speaker wires are tied into the factory amp instead of being wired directly to the speakers, except the dash tweeters and maybe rear speakers I forget. Hence why you hear ppl complain about swapping their radio and their door speakers don't work, that's because the wiring goes to the stock amp, which is what the MITO-01 harness is for, but I hear it's $100 and finicky anyways.
So you can just hardwire new speaker wire from the doors to your headunit to get around this.

I was lucky enough to have an Eclipse without the stock RF system, it makes it way easier to hook up an aftermarket system. You just get a $10 radio harness, wire RCA wires to your amp, wire sub or any speakers to the amp as normal, and done, all stock speakers will run off the headunit with factory wiring unless you want to power aftermarkets with custom wiring from an amp. Everything is the same as a regular car except the E-COM message I covered up with tape lol

T

Troubled1

·

Registered

Joined

·

9 Posts

Discussion Starter·#7·Mar 3, 2019

    Only show this user

Quick update. The RF sub lasted 2 days then blew one voice coil. I found a used alpine type r for $40, built a box for it and now the system sounds so much better.

I will however replace the 10” with 2-8’s in custom boxes when time and $$ permits. The 10” type r will be moved into my daughter’s car.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Lilliana Bartoletti

Last Updated: 12/18/2022

Views: 5947

Rating: 4.2 / 5 (53 voted)

Reviews: 84% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Lilliana Bartoletti

Birthday: 1999-11-18

Address: 58866 Tricia Spurs, North Melvinberg, HI 91346-3774

Phone: +50616620367928

Job: Real-Estate Liaison

Hobby: Graffiti, Astronomy, Handball, Magic, Origami, Fashion, Foreign language learning

Introduction: My name is Lilliana Bartoletti, I am a adventurous, pleasant, shiny, beautiful, handsome, zealous, tasty person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.